With every action there’s a reaction. And so, on a Parisian gastronomic landscape that has undergone rapid transformation of late, with cool new cafés and bars ever popping up, there’s now somewhat of a swing back to the old, the traditional, the authentic. A trend back to serving up nostalgic Gallic comfort food (snails, egg mayo, onion soup, boeuf bourguignon, Chantilly cream); French classics that have become harder to find in the new world of avocado toast; home-style dishes that would take too long to prepare in our fast-paced times; meals that remind Parisians of the fabled Sunday family lunches of yesteryear.
Enter the bouillon. The word means stock, or broth, but it also came to denote a certain type of restaurant in the mid-nineteenth century, when a Parisian butcher started serving up meat scraps in the form of soups and stews — and named his new eatery a bouillon. Before long, Paris had over 200 bouillons, which catered to a working-class clientele that craved hearty, comforting dishes.
In these days of faster food options, bouillons don’t just appeal to those on a budget, but to those who crave atmosphere as much as crème caramel. Not to mention a hit of culture, because some of the remaining bouillons are more akin to gastronomic museums, preserving old ways of dining as much as décor.
Good food in a gorgeous setting, and at practically-free prices: how can anyone resist? Add these bouillons to your next Parisian itinerary …
Bouillon Chartier
![Bouillon Chartier Paris](https://theparisdreamer.com/testing/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/bouillonchartier011-1024x686.jpg)
A narrow, gated passage takes you into a quaintly tiled courtyard. Go through the portal ahead that is a set of revolving wooden doors, and you’ll wonder if you’ve just taken a train back to a station called Belle Époque; there are even the old brass luggage racks and a large clock looming from the mirrored walls. Over one thousand locals and tourists alike enjoy good old-fashioned food in this warm and radiant Art Nouveau space —dating from 1896, it’s now classified as a historic monument. Entrées are around €5, mains around €10. No bookings are taken, so turn up any time between 11.30 and midnight.
7, Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre 75009
Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse
![Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse](https://theparisdreamer.com/testing/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Screen-Shot-2019-06-04-at-11.19.01-am-1024x1008.png)
The sister site of Bouillon Chartier, Chartier Montparnasse was recently converted back to its 1903 bouillon origins, after a stint as a more upmarket brasserie. It must be visited at least for its florid Art Nouveau décor — with its stained-glass ceiling, floral lamps and fairytale woodwork, it seems more an enchanted forest than a restaurant. The menu is the other reason to go; it’s as long as its prices are low. Open for continual service every day, from 11.30am to midnight, no reservations required.
59, Boulevard du Montparnasse 75006
Bouillon Julien
![Bouillon Julien Paris](https://theparisdreamer.com/testing/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Brasserie-Julien-14-1024x769.jpg)
Like Chartier Montparnasse, the old Brasserie Julien recently reverted to its bouillon roots, so you don’t have to pay too much to enjoy this feast for the eyes. A similarly, immaculately preserved historic landmark — it dates from 1906 — this has to be one of the most beautiful dining rooms in Paris. The woodwork — including an old mahogany bar by Louis Majorelle — gleams, the walls are decorated in exquisite mouldings and painted a soothing pale green, and the murals and stained-glass add facets of glittering colour. You feel as though you could be in an Art Nouveau jewellery box. More glamour still: Edith Piaf used to dine here. This bustling bouillon is open from 11.45am to midnight, but you can make a reservation to skip the eternal lines. Entrées start at €2,90, mains at €9,10. For a few more euros, add a cheese or dessert — or at these prices, perhaps a few.
16, rue du Faubourg Saint-Dénis 75010
Bouillon Pigalle
![Bouillon Pigalle](https://theparisdreamer.com/testing/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/B-Pigalle-2-914x1024.png)
This modern take on the traditional dining trend opened in 2017, and can be almost single-handedly credited with having revived interest in bouillons, and locals’ love for eating simple, satisfying, straight-from-the-market food, just like maman might have made in a former life. The prices are jaw-droppingly low — and that goes for the drinks, too; you could easily eat a three-course meal, with a glass of wine, for €20. No reservations are taken, but you won’t have to wait long at this double-storey, 300-seat restaurant. Open from midday to midnight.
22, Boulevard de Clichy 75018